Adding a jetted bathtub to a toilet takes careful planning, followed by setup particulars that closely adhere to the directions furnished by the bathtub manufacturer. Because jetted bathtubs come in various kinds and various sizes, take some opportunity to discover a design that suits the area you’ve got in the restroom.
When assessing your options, do not just examine the overall dimensions along with also the completed photos; be sure to also read through the company’s installation instructions. Jetted bathtubs are thicker than standard baths (particularly when filled with water), which means you ought to be certain that the floor framing on your toilet may encourage this excess weight. This is simple to accomplish in new structure. In a remodel application, you will have to be certain that the present floor framing may support the weight of the bathtub. Call within a seasoned remodeling contractor if you are unsure about it.
Take Care of those Plumbing Details First
The next thing to consider is the rough waste pipes. You’ll want the installment specs for your bathtub available since the snare and waste pipe needs to line up precisely with the bathtub drain. It’s simplest for those who have accessibility from below since you’re able to set the bathtub and complete the plumbing. If functioning from above, you will have to be very precise with all the rough pipes.
Because of this quantity of water a few jetted tubs could hold, they are often plumbed with 3/4-inch distribution lines instead of the common 1/2-inch. While that this may not seem like a large gap, a 3/4-inch lineup provides water at greater than twice the speed of a 1/2-inch line.
Depending about the bathtub filler used, the distribution lines may also must be found just. Wall-mounted fillers, specifically, are similar to this, since they frequently mount straight to threaded fittings which are fastened to the framing until the wall finishes have been all installed. Deck-mounted fillers are often more forgiving, since they’re linked to elastic supply lines.
Consider that the Electrical Requirements
Another consideration when installing a jetted tub is bookkeeping for your electric supply. Most need a committed 15-amp receptacle for your pump, and another dedicated 15-amp receptacle for your heater, even if there’s one. Both of them must be GFCI protected. These receptacles are concealed beneath the bathtub and resetting the GFCI are a nuisance. To prevent that difficulty, you are able to install normal receptacles to your pump and pump, feeding them via blank-front GFCIs found more accessibly, or using GFCI breakers in the electric panel.
Close off any open walls that the bathtub and deck meeting will hide using plywood, drywall, or tile backer. This would be to restrict airflow from the walls to enhance the home’s energy efficiency and slow down the spread of fires in case of a flame.
Tub Surround and Support Details Will Vary
Consult the bathtub’s literature to find out the general height of this deck. From this, subtract the thicknesses of the end coating material (generally tile), any underlayment for the end coating like tile-backer, along with an additional 1/8-inch to permit for a caulk joint.
Where the deck matches present walls, screw a ledger to all those studs. Make convinced the cover of the deck is dead flat. Follow the bathtub manufacturer’s directions to the size of this opening from the deck (In many instances, a template is included using the bathtub ), the depth of the plywood to your deck (typically one layer of 3/4-inch exterior grade plywood), along with stud spacing required to encourage the deck, either in the outer border and about the bathtub opening. Make certain to framework for a 12×18-inch opening to get the pump and pump. This entry frequently opens to an adjacent toilet alcove or closet.
Set that the Tub in Place
Once you put in the receptacle(s) to your pump and pump, it is time to place the bathtub. It’s a fantastic idea to get any tile underlayment installed in addition to the tub deck currently, but maybe not on the front knee to conserve access during setup. You’ll require 4 to 6 spacers to place the lip of the bathtub on. The spacers ought to be the depth of the tile also 1/8-inch, presuming the tile backer is set up on the deck–the depth of the tile and 1/8-inch in addition to the backer thickness when it is not.
Again, assess the bathtub manufacturer’s specifications. Some bathtubs can be put directly on the subfloor, but most need some type of bedding. This could be Structo-Lite, sand mixture, mortar, building adhesive, or high-density spray foam. If with a cement-based or plaster-based solution, do not add a lot of water. It’s significant the bedding material stays in complete contact with the bottom of the bathtub and does not flow off.
Set the bathtub set up today, linking the drain since the bathtub is reduced. In many situations, the instructions state to fill the bathtub with water in this stage to ensure whole contact with the bedding material. Since the bathtub filler will not be attached nonetheless, most pipes will fall a garden hose outside the window into some sill cock, or else they’ll bring water from a nearby source.
Once the bathtub is set, it is possible to install the end materials on the deck, knee walls, and encircling walls. Once that the tile is placed and grouted, follow the company’s instructions to set up the bathtub filler, get your pipes inspection, and settle down on your new bathtub and revel in the bubbles.